Maintenance of fencing weapons

Antoine Gouin
This article is a general maintenance guide; it does not elaborate on repairs. Be sure to follow the instructions specific to your equipment if your equipment is non-standard.

Tools

All the tools mentioned in this article are available in the Tools & Testers section of the site. However, you don't have to get everything from the start. Often, clubs make a tool kit available to everyone, or appoint a dedicated maintenance and repair person. Check with your coach.

Repairs

Unless you have had some training, we recommend that you have your weapons repaired by someone with experience. Often, this can be another parent or a coach from your club. Imex Sport also offers repair services in store, at tournaments and by mail.Click the following links to book an appointment with us or find our next tournament booth.

Nothing should be loose

Before using your weapon for training, or the day before a tournament, make sure that all the screwed parts of your weapon are tight:

  • Tighten your pommel using a 6mm Allen key
  • Tighten your connector screws using a flat screwdriver and a 5/16" wrench
  • Tighten your point base using a 5mm (foil) or 6mm (epee) wrench
  • Tighten your point screws using a small flat screwdriver (foil and epee)

This will prevent you from losing or damaging parts (in epee and foil, for example, a loose pommel can cause the guard to cut the blade wires).

Rust and oxidation

If your blades are not FIE-certified, they will eventually start to rust. To minimize rust, keep them in a dry place. Avoid leaving them in your fencing bag or in the garage when you are at home. I have seen blades that had been placed next to a bucket of chlorine ... After a week, they were bright orange!

If your blades are oxidized or rusted, you will have to sand them. To do this, use a polisging stone (see Tools & Testers) section) or 100/120 grit sandpaper and sand the blade until it shines. However, you never sand the side of the blade where the blade wires are (epee, foil). You may damage the wires or create a short circuit.

A stuck tip

In foil and epee, the point should slide easily, without friction or obstacle. If it does not, one possible cause is the presence of dirt in your tip. In this case, you can remove the two screws that hold the tip and clean the inside of the barrel with a cotton swab (Q-tip). You should never put lubricant in the tip. After the tip is reassembled, if the problem persists, see an experienced armorer. Otherwise, congratulations! The problem is solved!

Warning! Hold the tip securely when removing the screws. Otherwise, the spring inside the barrel will send the tip flying once the second screw is removed. If you are not sure what you are doing, get someone with experience to help you, at least during your first attempt.

My blade is oddly bent

In fencing, it is important that the blade is either completely straight, or that it has a uniform and regular downward curve (foil and epee) or inward curve (sabre). Over time, the curvature of your blade may become excessive and you may need to straighten it. Also, after a harder hit, a pronounced bend may appear. See the following (somewhat exaggerated) examples:

There are several techniques for straightening a blade. The best way to learn is to ask an experienced fencer or a coach. They will show you the best methods.

Warning! If you apply too much force to your blade, it can break. Also, depending on the context, it is possible that the blade is already weakened (for example in a tight bend following a hard hit) and that the slightest attempt to straighten it breaks the blade.